The Curly Girl Method: Everything You Need to Know to Get Started
CGM
These are the initials that changed the way I took care of my hair forever. If that sounds intense, it's because it is. If you know me, you know how much my hair means to me. I know I'm not the only woman who's ever struggled with loving and accepting the locks she was born with, so I can confidently say that it's not just hair, it's an extension of my personality, and it's definitely the frame for my face. In fact, even people that I see on a regular basis don't recognize me if my hair is pulled back or (*gasp*) straightened. I say all of this to drive home the point that my hair and I are thick as thieves, as they say, and I go to great lengths to take care of it.
So what do the initials stand for, Laura?
Curly Girl Method
I learned about CGM right after I did my Big Chop in 2015. In retrospect, I should've done my research before I cut most of my hair off, but I did it on an impulse and I don't regret it (at least not now).
CGM is a method used by curlies to take care of our hair and help it to look and feel its best. I bought a whole book, written by the creator of DevaCurl, to help me un-learn everything I knew about hair care...and yes, a whole book was necessary.
Before I get into the CGM steps and explain the kinds of products that are needed for it, I need you to identify where you're at in your hair journey so that you can determine how to go about dissecting what you're about to read.
If you're already #teamnatural, then none of this is new information, but you can keep reading just for fun. If you've already cut off all of your hair and are looking for what to do next, proceed and take notes. If you're just considering starting your natural hair journey, do not freak out! Take everything you read (here and anywhere else) with a grain of salt, and understand that the natural hair journey is exactly that, a journey. You won't have perfect hair overnight and it will take a lot of trial and error to find the right combination of products and routines to get your hair to look the way you love it. It's challenging at first, but I promise you it gets so, so, SO much better.
How do you do it?
Cleansing:
First and foremost, you have to break up with your shampoo. I know that seems insane, but it's not the only way to clean your hair and your scalp. Instead, use cleansing conditioners (Curl Quencher by Curlsmith is my current favorite).
Put the cleanser on the tips of your fingers and then work it into your scalp. You want to scrub pretty vigorously to loosen up the dirt and product buildup. Then work it down your hair and to the ends. When you're first starting out, you'll need to use a pretty generous amount because there will be a LOT of buildup. But like anything else, the more you do it, the less product you'll need and the easier it will get.
The cleanser will not bubble up. In fact, you'll see zero suds because it's a conditioner, not a shampoo. That part is going to take some serious getting used to. Don't worry, your hair IS getting clean!
If you're brand new to this, you can use a scalp detox or CGM-friendly shampoo (clink the links to see examples). Personally, I used to shampoo 1-2 times a month when I first started, just to get rid of product buildup. For the last few months, though, I've been using the CurlSmith Scalp Detox System weekly (full review coming soon!)
Conditioning:
So you're probably wondering, If I use a cleansing conditioner, do I still need a separate conditioner?
The answer is YES. The cleansing conditioner is really for your scalp, while the second conditioner is for the lengths of your hair. There are three ways to go about this:
Use a deep conditioning treatment after cleansing, and then go straight to styling.
Use a deep conditioning treatment, then use a leave-in before styling.
Use a 2-in-1 conditioner that doubles as your moisturizer AND your leave-in, so you never rinse it out.
I have done all 3 of these. My go-to, however, is option 3. The less amount of products I have to use, the better. My curly journey started out as a mission to have more freedom and spend less time worrying about my hair, so I like to keep things as simple as possible.
Your conditioner is probably the most important product you'll use, so I have many favorites. Here are a few:
Deep conditioning - Curlsmith Double Cream Deep Quencher & Not Your Mother's Curl Talk Deep Conditioning Curl Masque
Leave-in conditioners - Kinky Curly Knot Today Leave- In Detangler & Curlsmith Post Biotic Calming Conditioner
All-in-one conditioner - Not Your Mother's 3-in-1 Conditioner
Styling:
The final step is styling. This part will depend a lot on your personal preference. You have to decide if you prefer volume, definition, or length (because you can't have all 3 unfortunately). Here's a quick breakdown of which kinds of products will give you which kinds of results:
Styling Creams/Milks - These will give you the minimum amount of hold but the most softness. (Not Your Mother's Curl Defining Cream & Shea Moisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie are two good ones. They are pretty thick, so if you have fine hair, you'll want to use something lighter, such as the Shea Moisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl & Style Milk)
Mousse - These types of stylers will give you a medium hold, but offer more volume.
Gels - These offer the most hold and definition, but will also leave your hair crunchy, especially on Day One. HOWEVER, a little bit of crunch isn't necessarily a bad thing, because your hair will still be defined into Day Two, Day Three, sometimes even Day Four. (My two favorites are from Curlsmith and Not Your Mothers. These are my current go-to brands, in case you haven't noticed HA!)
And that's it!
Believe it or not, this was just a quick breakdown of the CGM and how to get started. There is SO much more that you can add to your routine to take care of your curls, but you are probably feeling overwhelmed enough as it is.
There's a ton of resources out there for you, though. My favorite curly-girl blogger is Bianca Renee. Click on her name to see her channel and subscribe (Also, Bianca girl, if you ever see this, I would LOVE to work with you…shameless plug, I know).
I also did a full review of the Curlsmith Moisture Line which you can find by clicking the link, and you can get the Starter Kit from Ulta to the basic products you need to start your new healthy hair journey.
Be patient, friend. It will take time but it will be SO worth it!
I'll leave you with a before/after from my own personal journey for inspiration.
